Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Real make up rules for real women

Three women share their experience of getting a makeover, appropriate for their age and skin type.When the products of your past are no longer working, it's not that you've lost your touch-you just need a new set of rules to fit your face today. And thanks to new products and technology developed specifically for older skin, there's never been a better time for a little tune-up. Prevention gave a makeover with smart make-up strategies to 3 women and the result is there for you to see!

1. Flaunt your cheekbones.

For sculpted cheekbones, make friends with a highlighter, and a bronzer that is a couple of shades darker than your skin tone. "After thoroughly moisturising your face (it prevents skin from getting stressed), use a skin primer plus concealer with a photofinish to prep your skin. Then use a highlighter on your cheekbones for an enhanced, contoured look and apply the bronzer below your cheekbones and around your nose and jaws for creating a natural shaded effect. It gives definition to those with a broad face," says Anuj Dogra, Delhi-based make-up artist who gave a makeover to these women. Splurge: Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder, Rs 2,000 Steal: Revlon Highlighting Palette - Bronze Glow, Rs 760

2. Prep your lids.

Laugh lines start appearing in your late 30s and lend creases to your eyeshadow. An eye primer will prevent a make-up meltdown, keep the shadow from settling into fine lines and wrinkles and mask imperfections like veins and age spots, which become more obvious as the skin on the eyelid grows thinner. Splurge: M.A.C Painterly Paint Pot, Rs 1,450 Steal: Deborah Milano 24Ore Perfect Eye Primer, Rs 495

3. Be strategic with powder.

A few finishing sweeps help make-up stay put, and the newest formulas are translucent instead of ultra mattifying. Apply it to the nose, forehead and chin, avoiding the cheeks and under-eye area, where it cakes and settles into fine lines. Splurge: Bourjois Mineral Enriched Loose Powder, Rs 865 Steal: Lotus Herbals Naturalblend Translucent Loose Powder with Auto-Puff SPF-15, Rs 3494.

 Clever colour correction.
When you were a kid, your cheeks had a natural rosy glow. With age, cheeks lose that flush because blood circulation to the skin becomes less active. Add issues like rosacea and uneven skin tone and you'll be left struggling to get a youthful glow that doesn't look fake. "Green or olive-toned colour corrector hides redness rather efficiently," advises Dogra. "Use a bit on the flush-prone areas and blend it well to achieve a clean and dewy look." Splurge: Stila CC Color Correcting Cream with SPF 20, Rs 2,700 approx Steal: Inglot Cream Concealer in No 36, Rs 7005. Go glossy.

Ultraviolet light, along with natural ageing, causes the collagen in your lips to break down, which is why they tend to shrink and get dry, and sometimes thin with age. But a little bit of gloss can give them the hydrated and plump appearance. Apply a matte lipstick first and follow up with a couple of dabs of gloss in the centremost part of your lips. A peach-toned gloss (looks good on all skin tones) made Alka's lips look softer and fuller. Splurge: Loreal Paris Glamshine 6H Lip Gloss, Rs 925 Steal: Lakme Absolute Matte Lip Color, Rs 5256. Smokey eyes are ageless.

The smudged and smokey effect, if done well, can transform your look. Create an ombre effect by applying kohl on the top and bottom waterline of your eyes. Make it as a line on top and lower lid and smudge with a smudge brush. (For a dramatic look, use a burnished gold eyeshadow on the upper lid and blend with the liner). For a minimal look, use a matte eyeshadow in a dark brown shade! Must-have: Clinique Brush-on Cream Liner in Black Honey, Rs 1,2507. Use a good foundation.
After 40, your skin becomes thinner, making your complexion a bit dull and pale. "A foundation makes the skin look two dimensional, by adding colour and depth," says Dogra. As we approach menopause, oestrogen levels drop, which makes the skin drier, so hydrating liquid formulas work best, advises Dr Kiran Lohia, dermatologist, Lumiere Dermatology Clinic, New Delhi. Splurge: Lancome Teint Miracle Foundation, Rs 2,700 Steal: Maybelline Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation, Rs 5758. Try concealer for pigmentation.

Consider an orange concealer to mask pigmentation. It helps hide dark circles too. "When the skin has many fine lines and wrinkles, especially around the eye area, an orange concealer can come to your rescue because in make-up, this colour neutralises pigmentation that is dark, blue and green," says Dogra. Must-have: NYX Concealer Jar in Orange, Rs 2,8239. Make your eyes come alive.
To create the illusion of thicker eyelashes, use kohl along the waterline and on it. A bit of kohl/eyeliner on the upper waterline can also make your eyes look bigger. "For eyelids with scaly skin, skin-toned matte eyeshadows work best," suggests Dogra. Don't neglect your eyebrows. They get sparser over time. Groom them with an eyebrow gel and use an eyebrow powder (black/brown) to fill in thin areas and pump up fading colour. If you have bald spots in your brows, use a pencil first, then apply powder on top. Must-have: M.A.C Pro Long Wear Waterproof Brow Set (brow set, gel creme, angled liner brush no. 208), Rs 1,350

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